Sometimes the Newspaper is Enough


Often I am asked to describe conditions in the part of Kenya where I work. I’m not saying that Nairobi doesn’t have some swanky hotels (which this E.D can’t afford), but once you get out to Kisumu anything that can go wrong will. It’s a total inevitability.
As a longtime lover of trains, I thought taking a train through the Rift would be delightful. Of course all my Kenyan friends thought I was nuts. Hmmm, I’m beginning to get the picture.
As you all know I feel compelled to read the Nation every day, even while visiting the new grandchild. Sometimes the Nation brings me to despair, but today it was just so funny I had to publish it whole. The words in bold are my comments, otherwise it’s right from the Nation.
“The Lunatic Express”

By PAUL JUMAPosted Wednesday, November 4 2009 at 22:00
In Summary
• How a promotional train ride to western Kenya turned out to be a scary trip
So, when the train finally set off in the wee hours of Monday, it was a relief, especially for the “wananchi”. Those that had slept on the floor got up took up their seats.
But the relief would be short-lived. Around 8am (Monday), the train ground to a halt after Fort Ternan station, at a section where the railway line lies at the bottom of a valley, with a forest escarpment on either side.
Passengers tried making phone calls but the area did not have any mobile network coverage. (and this happens all the time folks i keep trying to explain this to people back home who want me to keep in touch)
After hours of hopelessness in the middle of the forest, an official on aboard informed the Nairobi station that the train had stalled; and another engine was sent to the rescue from Fort Ternan.
But the rescue did not come that fast. When it finally arrived, it was attached at the rear end and started pulling the train back to where we had come from!(yeah directionality is not a strong point over there_
Passengers were told that the replacement engine could not haul the train all the way to Nairobi and could only tow it back to Fort Ternan where another engine would be fixed.
And the journey took reverse gear. At Fort Ternan, the engine that had returned us was removed, another one fixed and the forward gear was engaged.
Misfortune struck (Oh yes this is Africa)
On reaching Molo, another misfortune struck. The replacement engine had “poured out all the water” and it had overheated. The remedy initially meant simply waiting while the engine cooled off. Later, it was decided to despatch another engine from Nakuru station.
That was around 3pm, and another round of waiting. Some passengers who were transporting sacks of fresh farm produce decided enough was enough.
They alighted and intercepted Nairobi-bound matatus from the nearby road, loaded their wares and jumped in.
When the new engine from Nakuru arrived and got fixed to the train, it was around 5pm. The new leg of the journey form Molo started.
It was around midnight when the tired passengers reached Nakuru, and another six hours before the weary souls woke up at the Nairobi Railway Station around 6am, Tuesday. That was 25 hours after departure from Kisumu, not counting the initial eight-hour delay.

That’s why I tell people never to worry about being late, because if you get to my place within a day or so, it’s just fine.

 


I try to check the Kenyan papers every day. Frequently I learn something about the U.S. However, reading the Nation and the Standard also depresses me enormously. There is no escaping the corruption, famine, drought, and poverty that abide in Kenya. Today was no exception. It seems that there are now new rules for children entering first grade (standard 1). They will all need birth certificates. Wow, now there is a great idea to cut costs. Primary and secondary school are now supposed to be free. This did tend to put pressure on the education budget (and then there would be all the graft that takes place in each area of government) and you can’t really tax the villagers since they don’t make any money. So the answer clearly is make sure the kids don’t go to school. Reminds me of the poll tax we had in this country before Civil Right.

So here it is, taken from the Nation Newspaper today. My heart sinks.

By PAUL JUMA Posted Wednesday, October 28 2009 at 20:18

A birth certificate may soon be a compulsory requirement for admission to Standard One. The government plans to issue the directive that may be effective next year. The move could bar about 60 per cent of children who are estimated to be without birth certificates from joining school.

The proposal is among some drastic changes which the Ministry of Immigration plans to make as it implements its 2008-2012 strategic plan.

“We are in the process of negotiating with the Ministry of Education to make it mandatory for all children joining standard One to have birth certificates,” Immigration minister Otieno Kajwang’ said on Wednesday at the launch of the plan.

 

A Good Dog Day

On Friday I was interviewed by a writer who rode his bike across the U.S with a charity called Go the Extra Mile. I had watched him interview another young woman who clearly struggled with her life, but loved what she did. She even cried a little while describing her work with autistic children and horses. It was heartwarming in that way that news people love and cameramen want to poke mikes in your face.

I was next up. I had been having a very busy but good dog week. Just back from Puerto Rico, busy with clients and readying for back to back meetings for One Village on Sunday. I bellied up to the table, even spoke French to the cameraman (he was French) and answered questions. “Had I ever been afraid for my life?” Yes.
Why would I think of going back…blank stare from me..see this where I just don’t fit in I guess. It never dawned on me not to go back, One Village is what I’m supposed to do. He asked me if I’d always been such a maverick and I had to say yes..it would be one of the main reasons my marriage to Dr. Conservative failed. Then the final question, “How would I describe my life?” to which I answered “I’m dancing in the light. It’s as sweet as life could get.” And he was done. I was of no interest to him.

Here’s the deal, I get to work with the most amazing people on this planet. The research team who is writing a grant to improve healthcare in Kenya, came together 4 weeks ago. They are cranking out a grant with the grace and style of a finely honed surgical team. And they only met each other 4 weeks ago. As I watch the emails fly past me, everyone helping each other, I can get incredulous that I get to be part of this, or just downright joyful that somehow I get to put people together and get to watch them be the very best of who they are.

I’ve got a Board of Directors that any E.D should kill for. They are bright, creative, enjoy each other and really dig in. I think I told the bike guy this in the context of what’s wrong with most charities today. Most charities have people my age on the board. They sit on lots of boards, each other’s boards blah blah blah. They do it cuz it makes them feel important. However they don’t change things, they don’t think outside the box, they don’t challenge the E.D to be the very best she can do for fear she will let them down. If you get to be the very best of who you are, if you get to watch people gel and become friends and make a difference in this world, what’s not to love?

So what I’m sayin’ is that it’s pretty cool to be me, and I’m having a really really good dog day.

 

Lillian


It’s been a while since I’ve checked in. I read in the Nation and the Standard, Kenya’s papers that there are “rumors” that youth are arming themselves for the 2012 elections. I know they’re not rumors since I’ve heard what the tribes say about each other. However, it’s 2 years away and the folks don’t want to scare away what tourist bucks they can get.

In the North of Kenya there is drought while where I work they are preparing for floods and cholera. Famine continues in Masai land while the Sio threatens to overflow it’s banks next to Manyole and Malanga School. And the beat goes on.

We’re working on a grant to bring micro-computers to rural Kenya and change the way health care is done over there. We have an amazing team putting that together. One of the members donated a cow to one of the schools. While I can’t find a photo of her, I did come across this movie of Lillian that I made 3 years ago and decided it’s time for you to meet Lillian.

I know the accents are hard for American ears, but do try. The story is quite compelling.
And in the meantime, keep the faith y’all.

 


This is almost too painful to write about. It’s like that time in Mt. Elgon, I don’t like to think about it. Inside I howl in pain, how is this so? The land I left only 3 months ago is dying. The places mentioned in the New York Times no less are not foreign to me, I have been there. I know these people, I have seen these children. How did it get so bad? How did I miss it when I was there in June?

The land we traversed in June, Kisi, the Rift, the Mara, was green. It rained a couple of times, we slopped in the mud, we romped in the river with the hippos (ok I did to get my feet clean and paid for it later on). But now there is dying.

I tell my clients sometimes about the dying time. It comes every year around this time and doesn’t end until Jan. 15th. I have noticed it over the years. I wonder if Judaism got it right when the priest would go up on the mountain during Yom Kippur and beg for the lives of the people to be inscribed in the book of life. I wonder is there no priest to beg for the lives of the Kenyans and Tanzanians and Somali’s who are starving. If there is no priest to beg for your life, or you don’t get written into that book, then you die. It’s what I have seen anyway. If you ask yourself when most of the people in your life have died it’s between Sept and Jan 15th mark my words.

The schools sent me reports today. My heart sinks. They are incorrect,the receipts laughable, the forms made up, the school reports show that the majority of the scholarship money is going to boys instead of girls. I know I must hold the line, but these children God gave to me. I am glad I have Monica whom I shall call tomorrow. I have a world I shall share this article with. And I pray if you are reading this you will either go to our website or to www.KMET.co.ke and give whatever you can. We must feed everyone, we must be the priests who go up the mountain and beg for these lives. I know I shall.

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By JEFFREY GETTLEMAN
Published: September 7, 2009

LOKORI, Kenya — The sun somehow feels closer here, more intense, more personal. As Philip Lolua waits under a tree for a scoop of food, heat waves dance up from the desert floor, blurring the dead animal carcasses sprawled in front of him.
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Children waited in Lokori for aid last month. Communities are fighting over the few remaining pieces of fertile grazing land. More Photos »

So much of his green pasture land has turned to dust. His once mighty herd of goats, sheep and camels have died of thirst. He says his 3-year-old son recently died of hunger. And Mr. Lolua does not look to be far from death himself.

“If nobody comes to help us, I will die here, right here,” he said, emphatically patting the earth with a cracked, ancient-looking hand.

A devastating drought is sweeping across Kenya, killing livestock, crops and children. It is stirring up tensions in the ramshackle slums where the water taps have run dry, and spawning ethnic conflict in the hinterland as communities fight over the last remaining pieces of fertile grazing land.

The twin hearts of Kenya’s economy, agriculture and tourism, are especially imperiled. The fabled game animals that safari-goers fly thousands of miles to see are keeling over from hunger and the picturesque savanna is now littered with an unusually large number of sun-bleached bones.

Ethiopia. Sudan. Somalia. Maybe even Niger and Chad. These countries have become almost synonymous with drought and famine. But Kenya? This nation is one of the most developed in Africa, home to a typically robust economy, countless United Nations offices and thousands of aid workers.

The aid community here has been predicting a disaster for months, saying that the rains had failed once again and that this could be the worst drought in more than a decade. But the Kenyan government, paralyzed by infighting and political maneuvering, seemed to shrug off the warnings.

Some government officials have even been implicated in a scandal to illegally sell off thousands of tons of the nation’s grain reserves as a famine was looming.

So far, a huge, international aid operation to avert mass hunger has not kicked in, or at least not to the degree needed. The United Nations World Food Program recently said that nearly four million Kenyans — about a tenth of the population — urgently needed food.

“Red lights are flashing across the country,” the agency said.

But donor nations have been slow to respond, and a United Nations-led emergency appeal for $576 million is less than half financed.

Part of the reason may be the growing disappointment with Kenya’s leaders. They have been poked and prodded by Western ambassadors — and their own citizens — to overhaul the justice system, the police force and the electoral commission. The outcry followed a widely discredited election in 2007 that set off a wave of violence, claiming more than 1,000 lives.

But Kenyan politicians seem more preoccupied with positioning themselves for the next election in 2012 than with cleaning up the mess from the last one. Few reforms have been accomplished and corruption continues to flourish, as the grain scandal currently under investigation has made painfully clear.

“At a time like this, we need donor confidence,” said Nicholas Wasunna, a humanitarian adviser for the aid group World Vision. But he said that donors might be put off by “the politics of what’s happening in the country.”

The arid lands of northern Kenya have been the hardest hit. In some villages, it has not rained in years. But the drought has become a problem nationwide.

In Baringo, in the Rift Valley, people are eating cactus because corn and wheat have gotten so expensive. In Nyeri, in central Kenya, some have turned to pig feed. In Nairobi, the capital, even the fanciest neighborhoods often go without running water for a week. And it is dark too. Kenya relies on hydropower for electricity, so less rainfall means less power.

The Kenyan government has begun to respond, organizing some highly publicized food deliveries to famine-prone areas. But many Kenyan officials almost seem in denial.

Chaunga Mwachaunga is the acting district officer in Lokori, an especially parched town in northern Kenya. He bristled when presented with reports that dozens of children in his area had recently died of hunger.

“Hunger? How do we know they died of hunger?” he said. “I know there’s not enough food for people, but we can be sure that nobody will die of hunger while the Kenyan government is here. Show me the death certificates.”

It is hard to find any death certificates when there are few hospitals. Entering this area is like stepping back in time.

Lokori is home to the Turkana, who cling tightly to their traditions. The women wear wreaths of beads and shave their hair into Mohawks. The men scar their backs in puffy patterns and wear disc-like bracelets that double as razors. They live in gumdrop-shaped huts scattered across the sandy plateau and herd animals to survive.

Even in a good year, life here is extremely precarious. But this year malnutrition rates among the Turkana have soared way past emergency thresholds.

Turkana children, dressed in little more than a sheet, are hiking 20 miles for a gallon of water. Turkana men are abandoning families, simply vanishing into the desert because they cannot face the s
hame of being unable to feed their children. Many people here now have nothing to eat but the chalky, bitter fruits that grow wild in the desert. They smash them open with rocks to get at the barely edible part inside.

World Vision is distributing emergency rations to the worst-off areas. The other day, Mr. Lolua, who said he lost his 3-year-old son in June, waited with a group of men under a thorn tree for a scoop of porridge.

Another whisper of a man named Ekitela was so skinny and his hands shook so much he could barely hold the cup he had been given.

“I’m not as old as I look,” he said. “It’s just I don’t have any food.”

He then started choking on the porridge, which was the color and texture of sand, and was rescued by a capful of water from his granddaughter.

Perhaps equally worrisome is the rising ethnic conflict. The Turkana call their neighbors, the Pokot, ”the enemy” and said intense clashes recently broke out because of the shrinking amount of grazing land. One Turkana woman said “the enemy” had killed her son, stolen all her animals and driven her off her land.

Meteorologists predict rains will be coming by October, and they may even bring the other extreme from present conditions. Another El Niño cycle is forecast, which after years of drought and earth baked to a rock-hard crust could bring the opposite problem: floods.
Sign in to Recommend More Articles in World » A version of this article appeared in print on September 8, 2009, on page A1 of the New York edition.

 

Tomatoes

Growing up I was used to seeing endless green pastures and fields of corn, soy, wheat. I even knew how to milk a cow, though the only pets we ever had were dogs.
Well, we had a goat for a few days, but it ate my mother’s prize roses and she sent it packing. I was very much in sync with harvest times back then.

Now I live in a city full of buzzing cars and screaming sirens. Even on my roof deck I don’t see the stars as I did when I was a child. There is no smell of new mown grass, or large green and yellow rectangles spreading for miles reflecting the crops that were growing. And so it was when I left Cape Charles I happened upon workers harvesting crops.

At first I saw a field with lots of old school buses and passed it by. But then, I saw the migrant workers a few yards down the road going into green fields and I had to stop. I wanted to see what harvesting looked like now.

It will come as no surprise that the workers were all Mexican. They reminded me some of the sugar cane workers in Kenya. And then I saw their faces and no one was smiling or laughing. In Kenya there is always time to laugh and joke while harvesting because there is much more equality among the farmers. They don’t import people to do their dirty work. Everyone does the dirty work.

These lean, sweat stained men, here on Cape Charles were out picking green tomatoes and piling them into baskets which went onto a truck. They were serious and strained.The truck then took the tomatoes to a processing plant where they are gassed and saved for distribution in 2-3 months. How do I know this, because I stopped to take this photo and the overseer looked at me suspiciously as if I were a reporter for a newspaper or someone from INS. I quickly flipped into my Kenyan English explaining that I wanted to take photos to send back to the workers in Kenya to see how we farm.
It did the trick, I got the photos.

Later on, as I left the fields, I began to think about farming more. How odd it would seem to an African to harvest green tomatoes and use gadgets and processes to turn them an unnatural red. I kind of felt that way too. While I can see so many advances that would help my Kenyan friends, i.e. silos, I wouldn’t want all of our advances to get over there. Most certainly I wouldn’t want to lose the flashing white smiles and laughter that their harvests bring…and I kept on driving.

 

Silos

I drove down to Cape Charles on Friday. Cape Charles is an old railroad town on the Chesapeake Bay. Its homes are neatly stacked next to each other, shining pinks and greens, wide verandas with old wicker rocking chairs. The nights are sultry and soft.

It was while driving through the farmland on the way down, that I found myself caught in thoughts about here and Kenya. When I come home from Kenya, since I live in the city, while it’s difficult to adjust, there is little similarity to disarm me, so it’s not too bad. Driving on the smooth, straight roads, flat and wide I found myself startled by the rows of crops. Cornfields stretched along side of me, clipped and watered by a system that hung overhead. Next to the corn was what looked like my old friend millet and soy. Crops are rotated, fed well and watered. Next to most farms stood a large building with a circular roof. I remembered them well from my childhood. Silos! Silos hold the harvested grain, keeping it from rotting and allowing it to be sold at the best times. Those farms, which don’t have silos, have the convenience of either having a shared one with a neighbor or one less than a mile away at a crossroad or a small town.

What a vast difference from what I see in Kenya. It is not that the rows of corn are messy, just a bit haphazard. Dust from the unpaved roads blows over it willy-nilly. There is no irrigation system, so the stalks open their mouths to the sky hoping for a drink of water, or bend down with rot when too much water beats them into the ground. When farmers harvest the crop they must take it right to market. There are no well-kept farms with silos to hold the crops; in fact there are no grain storage facilities for miles and miles. It is almost impossible for a farmer to get it to a silo and so the grain must be sold immediately or they risk the probability of rot.

As I drove along I also saw livestock. Goats frolicked on verdant grass, kept safe by clean white fences. These were not the exhausted goats I saw on the roads or in the towns of Nambale, Kisi, or Busia. Chickens were kept in gynormous air-conditioned coops, out of the sun and resting until their ultimate demise. No working for living for these animals

It set my mind to thinking about so many things. The abundance of facilities and mechanisms we have to make farming easier was everywhere. What it would mean to a farmer in Africa to have a watering system which would help him tame one of the elements. It would literally change his world. But even more than that, a silo to store the grain in each village would allow the farmers a cooperative and a way of helping them climb out of poverty.

As a child a silo was a magical place where I would watch them pour the grain from a long shoot into the top of the roof. You always fill from the bottom up. The smell around them was warm with the scent of the wheat or the corn. I would stand there with my father and watch them fill. He would always warn me that they were dangerous places as well, since if you fell into one, you could literally drown in the grain. Now they take on a totally different meaning for me. Now I know that silos would mean a new beginning for the farmers of Nambale, a new way of life and as I slide down to road toward Cape Charles I wonder how we could make that happen.

 

Last night was the annual pulled pork party. It was pretty sweet having the peacekeepers on the roof. Some have been here since 2000, some are new this year. But all of them have a global view of the world and I am blessed to know them.

The real reason for this post is for you to view our new video. Hopefully the copyright gods won’t get me. Brett and I danced to this music on a bridge overlooking this river where the hippos swam. Unfortunately so did some other creepy things I’m still taking medication to get rid of. I guess hippos don’t suffer from rashes or if they do no one gets close enough to take a look.
So do check out the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6rrw5HFhsU
Keep the faith y’all

 

RepublicansAreLikeFireworks


I must say I am deliriously happy with the state of affairs the Republicans now find themselves in. I missed a couple of scandals while in Kenya (they have their own but I won’t report them), but I did get back in time for Mark Sanford. Wow, what a story, the man definitely crossed the vaginot line (look up Maginot Line for the analogy all you young ‘uns). Talk about oversharing, I didn’t really need to know how far he went and I’m not alluding to frequent flyer miles. Although a trip to Argentina without telling anyone on his staff or his wife is a really impressive way to screw yourself over.Another presidential candidate bites the dust.

And Friday oh the joy of it all…Sarah Palin resigned! Seems she’s already got lawyers threatening any bloggers who speculate about Sarah’s resignation, her family, or anything else they don’t consider flattering with slander. I hope they don’t mean me because I plan on slandering her right here right now. Sarah Palin is the bossy fat kid who hits another girl and when she gets clobbered she whines that it’s not her fault. She’s the teenager that had to belong to right clique so she could diss on all the other girls. Any red-blooded American woman knows or knew a Sarah Palin. So she quit, wa wa wa. How do you quit being a Governor? I betting the scandals are going to break soon. She was caught in a compromising position with an elk (not of the brotherhood but of the horned headed elks), or Todd is really gay or …. it doesn’t really matter. Another Republican blew himself/herself up and that delights bomb throwing liberal Mother Madrigal enormously.

Hooray for the 4th of July and Republicans blowing themselves up like Roman Candles. If you go to the fireworks store in N.H starting today you can get them 2 for 1, Roman Candles that is.

Keep the faith y’all.

 

TheWayForward


6 June 2009

It is time to return to Nairobi. Neither Brett nor I had any idea how long it would take to get there. The roads were their usual bumpy, dusty selves and the track seemed as if it would never end. It was the first time I heard Brett complain about anything. He, like me, was tired of the amount of travel it takes to get anywhere. I also was really feeling it in my whole body, the weariness, the aches and pains of hard roads and endless travel. But the Mara spread out before us and the skies reminded us that when we returned to the States this broad expanse, this life changing trip would be over and we would slip back into the fast passed, technological lives we had left. Definitely a mixed bag.

We traveled a different way home, so instead of going through the Rift I got to see Central Kenya. We surely had seen a lot of different terrain. As we passed through the land of the Masai, past the Kisi and into Kikuyu land I had a good deal of time to think. I still couldn’t bring myself to grasp all that had happened. I couldn’t wrap myself around the joy and satisfaction of a job well done. I couldn’t quite see that all had been accomplished despite no real plan when we left. It is almost a week later now and I’m still perking all of it.

What I do know is that it has taken so many people to get to where we are. I received a lovely email from one of the committee members for the Harambee and I had to tell her, that if I succeeded it was that so many people were holding me up. This remarkable board who believes so strongly in what we are doing and are willing to work hard so that we can raise the money to move forward. All the countless folks who have donated small amounts of money, to the one donor who carried me for 4 years with his contribution of most of our budget kept me returning.. I think of boards past and their work, and the people in my church and the one totally clear thing I know is that it takes a village here to help a village there. We are truly One Village at a Time and we’re walking towards that endless sky that encompasses all of us and unites our humanity. I am grateful and proud of that.
And God said it is good.